by Elizabeth Gariti
In the shadow of the 59th Street Bridge lies an opulent burrow of wooden carvings, saffron lighting, plush carpeting and ornate floor cushions scattered amongst floor-level tables, the perimeter surrounded by filmy curtained tents reaching from floor to ceiling. Casbah disco plays as sophisticated Middle Eastern businessmen breath in the cinnamon-chocolate scent from the hookah while gazing languidly at the belly dancer making her way around the floor. . .
Casa La Femme is an upscale Egyptian restaurant, located just south of 59th Street on 1st Avenue. Known for its authentic Egyptian and Middle Eastern cuisine, it’s been serving the Arabic community and other Mediterranean-food-loving patrons for 13 years, first in SoHo and now near the Upper East Side.
There are two menus at Casa La Femme. One is the A La Carte menu, which is served at round wooden tables in the center of the restaurant. The other is the Tent Prix Fixe, which is served at floor- or regular-level tables in the private curtained tents surrounding the room.
Attracted by the mysterious atmosphere and the belly dancer, I invited a friend to meet me there on a rainy Thursday night. With an appetite worked up by my round with Martha, the belly dancer, and wanting the most authentic experience, we chose a tented floor-level seat. Ensconced in our lair, we began to enjoy a wide range of specially-selected, regional dishes.
The Prix Fixe is a five-course meal including dessert and a choice of separately-sold sides. It seems like a lot of food, but each course is light and perfectly proportioned so you can go on to the next course without feeling too full. Anything that you don’t finish, you can have graciously wrapped up.
“Mazzes” (or Mezes), the Arabic answer to Tapas, of hummus, Babaganoush and Fuul Medames (puréed fava beans) served with fresh-baked, hot, sesame pita was the starting course. Even though the hummus frustrated one of the staff members, because it’s “better than he could make at home”, the Babaganoush was the big hit and had the most notable taste. The smoky eggplant was marinated heavily in lemon juice and Tahini, which took out all the heaviness, leaving a sharp, tangy flavor with a subtle spicy kick that seemed to come from nowhere.
Courses one, three and five were predetermined, so we really had a chance to experiment with the second and the fourth. For our Appetizers, the Second Course, my friend had the Goulash Bil Gibnah, recommended by a few staff members as they got down on their knees to explain the menu. The Goulash, despite the Hungarian-sounding name, is house-made phyllo pastries stuffed with mushrooms, leeks, fresh herbs and gibnah domiaty, a salty, Egyptian cheese that is smoother than Feta. The phyllos were soft, understated and mild.
I had the Felfel Mahschi, a baked, sweet bell pepper, loaded with jasmine rice, fresh herbs and spices with a side of snappy tomato sauce. Greg, our waiter, down on his knees once again, unpacked the pepper and dribbled the tomato sauce over its contents. The result was a taste like a Tartan Kilt, and I mean that in a good way. It was a combination of tannic red from the tomato sweetened by the pepper and softened by the rice. It was a rolling plaid weave of textures and flavors.
For the Third, a break between the starters and the entrée, we had a Peasant Salata (salad)—tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions and carrots in a citrus vinaigarette, and Molokhya, a thick, traditional, green-leaf garlic soup laden with garlic. It’s a potent, semi-thick, khaki-green mash held together by the garlic and the leaf’s fiber with a dense, flaxen flavor. Many Arabic gentlemen have commented it’s just like their grandmothers used to make.
The courses came slowly, leaving us lots of room for wine and conversation in between. The wines were from regions close to Egypt: Morocco, Italy and Spain. The list is constantly changing with different wines by the glass offered nightly.
Finally, the entrées. I had Riash Mashway, the lamb chops: nice and juicy, cooked medium-rare, seasoned with rock salt, oregano and red pepper. My friend had the Tangine Samek, a Talapia fish, stuffed with shrimp, leeks and crabmeat. We had a side of Fatta, an Egyptian celebration rice. Rock salt seems to be the staple—almost every entrée was flavored with it. The lamb chops were encrusted with it—crispy, salty and spicy, all which preserved the meat’s juices. The Talapia was supple with a touch of piquance.
Dessert, which we surprisingly still had room for, was a delicately stuffed, warm caramel and cinnamon Egyptian pastry. Completing the course (and the meal) was a Turkish coffee.
Finally, after many hours, and feeling like we could both use another round with the belly dancer, we unfolded ourselves from under the table and made our way into the night.
Casa La Femme is one of the restaurants that make New York City great. Authentically ethnic, distinctively exotic and luxuriously romantic, it promises a special experience for all who enter its arched wooden doorway.
| Casa La Femme
1076 1st Avenue (between 58th & 59th)
New York, NY 10022
212-505-0005 |
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For a complete list of Upper East Side restaurants, please see our restaurants page and for a selected list of upper east side menus and restaurants that accept Internet orders, see our menus page. |
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