by Hillary Packer
There is a theory that a culture of fear exists in America, specifically in Gotham city where killer bees and Asian flues lead to hibernation and xenophobia. However, for all the unfounded or overblown boogie men creeping thru our city, there appears to be no phobia about food. New Yorkers’ voracious love affair with food ignores obvious warning signs. Somehow we push thru the sight of phallic chunks afloat in murky water to enjoy a meal called “dog”, despite the fact that it bears no resemblance to its name or any other living thing. I am last on the list to suggest we forgo the hot dog or New York street fare all together. However, in this age of genetic engineering, food irradiation (linked to abnormal and carcinogenic cell mutation) and mad cow disease (often a result of humans feeding Mama Bessie to Baby Bessie, ew) it seems that food practices previously reserved for tree huggers and hippies may not be such a bad idea for the average city dweller, in a city getting greener all the time.
Paving the way for the average (read: overworked, underpaid, overly busy) New Yorker to embrace unprocessed, homegrown, fresh food is Just Food, a non-profit organization that "promote(s) a holistic approach to food, hunger and agricultural issues." One initiative of Just Food is to help New Yorkers develop what is known as Community Supported Agriculture, food systems now known as CSAs. Before the farming season begins, each CSA member pays one lump sum to purchase a "share" of the local farm connected with that CSA. In return for the preemptive purchase, come June, each member receives a weekly share of the harvest until November, totaling twenty-four weeks of food.
Tucked away in various locations around the city are close to forty CSAs, one of which is located on the Upper East Side. The Yorkville/Carnegie CSA was born eleven years ago and, at about 200 members plus a waiting list, is almost overgrown. The payments of these CSA members are funneled directly to Stoneledge Farm, located one hundred twenty miles away in the Northern Catskills. The money is used to grow and distribute the harvest and to pay the farmers of Stoneledge a living wage. In return, the farm pledges to use sustainable farming practices and deliver certified organic food, which means no pig hoof in your lima bean or laser beamed into your lettuce leaf.
Of course, in a loving partnership such as this one, members take the good with the bad. Should the rain drown the radishes or a drought deprives the dill, there is no complaint form to fill out, no refund, warranty or money back guarantee. What there is, however, is a weekly delivery of farm fresh local produce including vegetables and herbs, which I found myself drooling over last Tuesday afternoon.
The Yorkville/Carnegie CSA has two pick-up locations, one on 74th Street and York Avenue and the other on 90th Street and Fifth Avenue. During my visit to the York Avenue site, I witnessed a quiet rebellion against industrial agriculture (the ones selling science experiments as snacks), active support for the environment and a reclaiming of personal health and diet. Toting canvass bags or old Zabar’s plastic, each member arrived to pick up their bundle. For what amounts to about sixteen bucks, they each collected one pound of red Norland potatoes, one bunch of scallions, twelve summer squash, one bunch of beets, one bunch of Swiss chard and one bunch of Bok Choi.
For an additional fee a fruit share can also be purchased as well as an option to order fresh eggs and anti-biotic free-range meats, (a.k.a no mad cows!) It is said that one share is enough to feed a family of two adults and two tots and it seems that there is often leftovers for canning, freezing or other such preservation methods which can be learned about in the newsletter that accompanies each delivery. Authored by Farmer Debbie Kavakos of Stoneledge Farm, the newsletter explains what is in your sack and why (weather conditions and other farm happenings) and provides recipes for the various vegetables and herbs, so not only is your diet a little less dangerous but your cooking is as well.
Members of the Yorkville CSA who I spoke with were enthused about the beginning of this years’ crop and felt assured that they had made a sound investment. Katherine Lyons, a six-year veteran explained, "Some people are here for ecological reasons, some are here because they are foodies and can't get this stuff anywhere else; I'm in the middle."
If you want to claim eco-friendliness, if you fear radioactivity, if you had a cow named Bessie or a fling with a farmer, if you’re a gourmand or simply a gorger, the middle can encompass you too. But you will have to wait it out. The waiting list is long. As it turns out, New Yorkers want their dogs and their Daikon too.
For more information, visit http://www.justfood.org and for information on the Yorkville/Carnegie CSA specifically, go to http://veggies.home.mindspring.com.
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