by Joanne Youssef
| Discreetly set on East 64th Street off Madison Avenue, La Houppa is a well-kept secret among the Upper East Side’s most elite dining experiences.Named for the early 1900’s French actress Marcelle Capronnier, better known as Madame La Houppa whose caricature adorns their menu, La Houppa is a warm, inviting feast for all the senses. |  | | Upon entering the restaurant, my party was immediately taken with the sumptuous and elegant décor: bright, inviting colors, comfortable, relaxing seating, and a warmth and glow emanating from an earthen-brick oven towards the back of the restaurant.
We were greeted by the charming and friendly staff, who, as we were early for our reservation, invited us to a drink at the bar while our table was being prepared. We took in the spray of the floral arrangements and experienced the vibrant artwork throughout the restaurant, absorbing, yet never a distraction from the delicious aromas wafting around the room as we sipped our cocktails. And, as we were soon to find, the food was to be equally sensational, a pleasure in its innovation and presentation as well as it’s taste. | | The waiter started us with an appetizing focaccia al pomodoro, served on a warm, soft, yet crisp pita crust as the maitre’d decanted a 2001 Brunello di Montalcino.
The wine was a smooth, sensual bouquet and the perfect collaborator to the ensuing dishes of flaky, light crab cakes, warm, mixed seafood salad, and imported Bufala mozzarella with roasted peppers, avocados, tomato and basil. |  | | The party kicked up a notch as the wine took effect while the atmosphere was becoming cozier and warmer as the activity and conversation around us mounted. | | The main courses were served along a 2003 Collio Raccaro, a rich, flavorful merlot with a slight chocolaty hint.We dined on braised lamb shanks, so tender that you never once use your knife, a pumpkin risotto, playfully presented in a gourd, and a savory papardella perfectly balanced with lamb and mushroom. |  | | Taking some deep breaths, we prepared for the final gesture of the evening, the desserts. | | Tiramisu ... |  | | Chocolate Soufflé ... |  | | and Fried Ravioli ... |  | | ... all prepared in the brick oven, come out in the warmest, lightest and most flavorful way, accompanied by homemade vanilla ice cream and washed down with a delightful 2005 Moscato d’Asti.
Noticing that over four hours had elapsed since we sat, and our senses had more than adequately been filled, we decided it was time to leave with the knowledge that we would return another day to be rejuvenated. In the philosophy of Madame La Houppa, you can never get too much of a good thing. |
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