Madison Avenue has long been renowned as the center of the Advertising Industry, but to shopping mavens who covet designer goods, it is also recognized for its high-end consignment and designer resale shops.

With the advent of the Internet and eBay along with a growing lust for designer merchandise, Consignment and Resale is now big business. As noted in the recent New York Times (http://www.nytimes.com/2006/06/24/business/24consignment.html) article, the Consignment trade is moving from mom & pop-owned stores to corporate franchises. But the upper Madison Avenue resale shops are still individually owned and retain their elegant 50-year-old charm. The best-known are Encore, BIS, La Boutique and Michael’s. They are all situated geographically close to each other on the second floor of their buildings. While all offer previously-owned or “gently used” designer goods, the selection varies from shop to shop. I asked one store owner if she thinks the shops are in competition with each other, and she said no, the variety and proximity benefit the clients.

Even though these shops are locally owned, they have long-standing national and international reputations. All four have websites and sell some items online, but shopping for designer apparel and collectibles is really a “brick and mortar” experience. To this, I went on a compare-and-contrast tour of all four.

The self-proclaimed “grande dame” of UES consignment shops, Encore was started in 1954 by Mrs. Florence Barry. "It all started," Mrs. Barry said, "because I found my own wardrobe costing a fortune. . . I was going broke on new clothes and decided a lot of other women might be doing the same, so why not start sort of a clothes exchange." It was an idea whose time had come.

Still in its original locale, Encore is a bit musty, with the most “consignment-like” feel of the four. But don’t let this fool you. There is a wide variety of merchandise and many gems to be discovered here, from vintage 50s’ Pucci biker’s shorts--or pedal pushers as they were probably known in their day (at $240.00)--to sexy satin underwear to a rack of Chanel suits.

Encore also boasts a wide selection of accessories and more “casual” designer wear. I found a pair of never-worn Gap jeans ($10), Ralph Lauren summer clothes and a healthy selection of Prada, Chanel and Manolo Blahnik shoes.

Though they do sell vintage collectibles, Encore’s terms and conditions state that the items accepted for consignment must be current—within a year or so—seasonal and in perfect condition. Even though the website says they specialize in designer and couture labels, there are a lot of high-quality “non-designer” goods to be found also.

At the turn of the 20th Century, what’s now known as Michael’s was a fur reseller. Family-owned for five generations, Michael’s opened as a clothing and apparel consignment shop in the mid ‘50s. They specialize in “the resale of the most pristine, used, designer clothing and accessories for the discriminating woman.”

Michael’s is the largest of the four shops and has an easy-going atmosphere. They offer the widest variety of designer goods from the young and funky to the power suit, evening gowns to wedding dresses. The common sense of consignment shopping is apparent in their Bridal section, with $5,900.00 Vera Wang wedding dresses going for $1,600.00.

Michael’s is also the place to get your Hamptons wear. I saw a lovely Donna Karan linen caftan pants outfit for about $75.00.

Michael’s is extremely discerning and will only accept consignments with designer labels, no less than two years old. Even though they will occasionally accept some very rare, valuable and in-demand collectibles, Michael’s pointedly doesn’t do vintage. “It’s a different industry,” says President Laura Fluhr.

While it doesn’t offer the variety and volume of the other three shops, BIS’s wares are persistently high-quality. The merchandise tends to be a bit more mature and stately and runs heavily towards evening gowns and power suits. Everything is in excellent condition and practically brand-new.

They feature apparel with well-known and lesser-known names along with Gucci sunglasses and Prada shoes. And the prices, especially during their 50%-off sales, are rock bottom. I saw an elegant Chanel dress, which probably retails for over $500.00, for $75.00.

La Boutique offers a wide array of really stunning designer clothing, from recent consignment items to a fantastic collection of vintage collectibles by Pucci and Halston among others (including a multi-colored, silk Halston jumpsuit from the ‘70s that just knocked my socks off). The collection leans more towards the younger, funky end of designer wear. They also have a large selection of fresh, still-sporting-the-tag designer sample sizes from sample sales and designer boutiques. I saw lots of vintage Pucci and brand-new Rucci along with exquisitely beaded Oscar de la Renta gowns and Halston dresses.

There’s also an 80%-off rack which features power suits, skirts, slacks and dresses from designers like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. Suits that retail anywhere from $200-$500 can be purchased for $60-$70.

The term “bargain” is relative, depending on an item’s market value, intrinsic quality and the buyer’s perspective. A vintage, hand-beaded, Oscar de la Renta gown originally retailing at $7,500.00 now priced at $1,000.00 is a bargain. A $1,500 Ferragamo cocktail dress for $300.00. . . that’s a bargain! I asked the owners of all four shops about their pricing formulas. While none would reveal their exact methods, factors considered are: original retail price, name recognition, an item’s condition and age, whether it’s considered a “collectible”, current desirability (if it’s deemed “hot”), and the unscientific factor of “how much they can get for it”. The average discount is around 60% off retail but can go up to 95%. Some items may even be priced higher than original retail depending on their “collectibility”. All agree that designer goods sell the best even though they may not actually be the best quality. Sometimes lesser-known brands are of better quality. The biggest risk in pricing is to price an item too low. When that happens, it’s usually scooped up, and the consigner doesn’t get full value. Proceeds are usually split 50%-50%.

High-end resale and consignment shops are not only on Madison Avenue, but clustered all around the UES. If you want to venture off Madison Avenue and explore other shops, check out Designer Resale, 324 E. 81st btw.1st & 2nd; Gentleman’s Resale, 322 E. 81st, btw 1st & 2nd; Tatiana’s, 767 Lexington Avenue, Suite 505; Vintage Collections, 147 E. 72nd @ Lexington; and Ina Uptown, 208 E 73 St. btw, 2nd and 3rd.

So, the next time you’re on Madison Avenue in the 80s, shopping for the perfect dress or beach outfit, ring the buzzer and climb the stairs. Chances are you’ll find what you’re looking for on the racks of Michael’s, BIS, Encore or La Boutique.